hard to believe, but it's been thirty years now that I've been riding
and working on Moto Guzzis. I started with a 1975 850T followed shortly
by a 1976 Le Mans which my quite new girlfriend at the time, Loretta,
bought for me. We are still together and we still have the LM I. I've
had as many as 18 bikes at once(12 of them Moto Guzzis) and mostly
Italian. Over the years, I've purchased a couple dealer inventories and
collected many bikes and parts. In 2001 I bought Manfred Hecht's
inventory from his business, Raceco. In addition to piecing together a
full set of factory tools for working on V700 through Daytona/1100
Sport "Big Twin" models, I bought Manfred's special rear drive set up
tooling which was developed through his factory contacts and
proprietary information from the original manufacturers of the gears.
This special tooling not only allows me to shim the crown and pinion
gears more quickly(used to take many hours), but much more precisely in
both the axial and the radial planes. The precision of this process is
further enhanced by custom shims which I use in addition to the factory
shims. I also use some other, non factory, special tooling to "load"
the crown gear(it is pushed away from the pinion gear in service due to
the helical nature of the teeth) to obtain the ideal clearance between
the crown and pinion.
| Why Just a
rear drive service?
rear drives are disassembled for cleaning and inspection. All
appropriate seals, "O" rings and gaskets are replaced. Gearbox
shift return springs are replaced.
drives: The pinion gear is removed from it's housing and the bearings
are cleaned, inspected and shimmed. Next the pinion is shimmed
axially using the "Raceco Rear Drive Set Up Tooling" along with special
developed by Zydeco Racing for an ultra precise shimming job. Finally,
crown gear is loaded, as it will be in use, with more special tooling
radially in relation to the pinion for a perfect running
clearance. Often, a copper support
ring which holds the
needle roller bearing for the crown in place is badly worn. If
this copper ring was to wear through, the bearing would shift off it's
race into the
inner seal allowing the crown/flange assembly to droop on it's axis
results. I have never seen anywhere in print where this part is
referenced as a
maintenance item or even worthy of inspection. It certainly is both. I
constantly. They are cheap.
I also do a number of gearing
swaps for people who want to change their overall drive ratio. Contact
me to discuss this.
Gearboxes: With all the shafts
out of the gearbox, the bearings are checked, the layshaft is
completely stripped, the mainshaft is checked
for separation. If the separation is severe, it will destroy the inner
collar for 5th on the mainshaft and will effectively alter the shimming
of the mainshaft
causing damage to the engagement dogs on the gear and it's engagement
muff). With the layshaft apart the support washer between 2nd and 3rd
for wear. If the left handed thread nut on the front of the layshaft
box has not been properly torqued, this washer gets "ringed" making the
impossible to shim. All the engagement collar and gear dogs are checked
The layshaft and engagement collars are checked for excessive spline
fork wear is also measured. The layshaft is now shimmed to it's
length. Centers are then established for the 1st-2nd and 3rd-4th gear
and compared to the centers for the neutral portions of the shift
tracks for 1st-2nd
and 3rd-4th on your shift drum. What all this mumbo jumbo means is
Guzzi cut the tracks a little off on some of their drums, making
shimming impossible. If this is the case, I can then go back with
custom shims and
correct the centers between the gear pairings on the layshaft. Then I
assembled length. Next the mainshaft assembled length is shimmed. Now
drum can be shimmed for clearance and then shimmed again front to back
the box to give the proper depth of engagement for the various gear
pairings. I now
index the eccentric adjuster on the back of the gearbox after setting
for an equal throw on up and down shifts since all of the usual
above described basic services are:
Rear Drive- $190.00
Labor Rate- $60.00/Hr. For work done beyond
the Basic Service procedures.
|| There seem
to be a number of
shops and dealers who offer competent engine services for both stock
rebuilds and high performance engine work (None better than my own main
sponsor, Mike Rich Motorsports). Also, I don't have the space to take
in whole bikes. Few seem to have the interest or expertise to deal with
the gearboxes or reardrives. Not only do I do work for several shops,
but unfortunately, I do work for bike owners who had shops mess up
their GBs & RDs. Even skilled home mechanics would not be able to
take on a GB or RD without the necessary factory tools or the ability
to make the tools needed.
I have many new and
"as new" used
parts for MG Standard five speeds. Most new parts are sourced from MG
Cycle and sold at their pricing.
speed gearbox have to clunk into gear when I shift it?